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PROBLEM
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POSSIBLE CAUSE
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SOLUTION
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The charger is making
an audible clicking sound.
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Circuit
breaker is cycling.
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The
settings may be wrong. Check the charger settings.
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Battery
is defective.
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Have battery checked.
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Shorted
battery cables or clips.
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Circuit
breaker is cycling. Check for shorted cables or clips and replace if
necessary.
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Severely
discharged battery, but otherwise it is a good battery.
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Allow
charging to continue until battery has a chance to recover sufficiently
to take a charge. If more than 20 minutes, stop charging and have the
battery checked.
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Reverse
connections at battery.
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Shut
the charger off and correct the lead connections.
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Charger makes a loud
buzz or hum.
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Transformer
laminations vibrate (buzz).
|
No
problem; this is a normal condition.
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Shorted
Diode Assembly or Output Rectifier Assembly (hum).
|
Have
charger checked by a qualified technician.
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Short or no start
cycle when cranking engine.
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Drawing
more amps than the charger can provide.
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Crank
time varies with the amount of current drawn. If cranking draws more
amps than the charger can provide, crank time may be less than 3
seconds.
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Failure
to wait 3 minutes (180 seconds) between cranks.
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Wait
3 minutes of rest time before the next crank.
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Clips
are not making a good connection.
|
Check
for poor connection at battery and frame.
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AC
cord and/or extension cord is loose.
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Check power cord and
extension cord for loose fitting plug.
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No
power at receptacle.
|
Check
for open fuse or circuit breaker supplying AC outlet.
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The
charger may be overheated.
|
The
thermal protector may have tripped and needs a little longer to reset.
Make sure the charger vents are not blocked. Wait and try again.
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|
Battery
may be severely discharged.
|
On
a severely discharged battery, charge for 10 to 15 minutes in the
highest charge rate to help assist in cranking.
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Charger will not turn
on when properly connected.
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AC
outlet is dead.
|
Check
for open fuse or circuit breaker supplying AC outlet.
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Poor
electrical connection.
|
Check
power cord and extension cord for loose fitting plug.
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The battery is
connected and the charger is on, but is not charging.
|
Clips
are not making a good connection.
|
Check
for poor connection at battery and frame. Make sure connecting points
are clean. Rock clips back and forth for a better connection.
|
|
The
charger is in tester mode, not charge mode.
|
Press
the Charge Rate button to activate charging and select a charge rate.
|
|
The measured current
is much lower than what was selected.
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The
charger reached the maximum voltage and is reducing the current.
|
No
problem; this is a normal condition.
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The DIGITAL DISPLAY
always flashes before the battery is completely charged.
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The
incorrect BATTERY TYPE may have been selected.
|
Reset
the charger by briefly unplugging it or briefly disconnecting the
negative battery clip. Be sure to reset the charger to the proper
settings.
|
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The
battery did not reach full charge within 24 hours.
|
May
be due to a very large battery or bank of batteries requiring more
power than the charger can deliver within 24 hours.
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The
battery is defective.
|
Have battery checked.
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The CHARGED (green)
LED lights a few minutes after connecting to the battery.
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The
battery may be fully charged or recently charged, leaving the battery
voltage high enough to appear to be fully charged.
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If
the battery is in a vehicle, turn the headlights on for a few minutes
to reduce the battery voltage and try charging again.
|
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The
incorrect BATTERY TYPE may have been selected.
|
Reset
the charger by briefly unplugging it or briefly disconnecting the
negative battery clip. Be sure to reset the charger to the proper
settings.
|
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The
indicator lights are lit in an erratic manner not explained in this
manual.
|
You
might have accidentally activated a special diagnostic mode.
|
Make
sure nothing is touching the control panel, then unplug the charger and
plug it in again.
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Schumacher User Manual Link
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